Omar Jepperson rides Skook, summer 1999
see the Photo Page
Skookumchuck/Sechelt current table
v 890Skookumchuck Rapids (aka as Sechelt Rapids), a kayak guide to Skook
Omar Jepperson rides Skook, summer 1999
see the Photo Page
Skookumchuck/Sechelt current table
Introduction
The Skookumchuck Tidal Wave, known to paddlers simply as Skook, is truly one of the great whitewater wonders of the world attracting paddlers from across the globe. Not only is it a great whitewater feature, but it's in an incredibly beautiful natural setting, the wave is accessible and user friendly for those who are just learning playboating fundamentals, it's a great place for spectators or just hanging out on the rocks and enjoying the show, and watching it form right before your eyes and then disappear a few hours later can only be described as truly magical.
The Wave
The wave begins to form within a few minutes of slack low tide as the flood cycle begins and water rushes back into the inlet. As water squeezes through the Sechelt Narrows, the maximum current velocity during any one tidal cycle can range between 1 to 17 knots. The current velocity on any given day depends on the differential between low and high tides which are in turn determined by the phases of the moon (be sure you understand how to read the current tables as the wave does not form every day and is generally best a few times a month). The wave itself forms as the water flows across a bedrock ledge that extends out into the channel. The configuration of this ledge means that the wave only forms on the flood or incoming tide.
As the flood begins the wave starts forming as a series of small-amplitude, long-period waves (photo). If it's your first time and you're feeling a little uneasy about this "monster" known as Skook, then get out there right away at the start of the cycle and get comfortable on these nice easy waves. One important note is managers of the park land where this site is located have identified issues with resource degradation associated with folks launching their boats and scraping the marine life off the rocks. Keep your activities restricted to the area right near the eddy and don't make a long slide across the rocks. Within an hour or so of slack the wave begins to build (photo). It starts out without much pile but then that too begins to form and during this dynamic time period the wave will change between each surf. Within a couple hours as peak current velocity is reached, a great pile forms on surfer's right and a smooth glassy surface forms on surfer's left (photo). This phase in the cycle offers the best surfing and it's also during this time that a secondary wave forms behind the primary wave which can also be fun (photo).
While the wave itself is fairly user friendly the boils and eddies "downstream" are not. If you don't get right back into the eddy after coming off the wave you can end up on a "tour" down the channel of up to a kilometer or more. At the peak of the cycle the boils and an exploding wave can be initimidating but it's not hard to stay clear of the worst of it as long as you have a good brace. A solid roll is a must as swims can quickly become epic. If you do swim, and it happens, you'll probably be fine but it can easily turn into a half hour project to get yourself rescued and back to the wave.
At the peak of the cycle, those in short play boats with insufficient hull speed may have trouble attaining onto the primary wave from the eddy. At this point you can carry up to the eddy above the wave and drop in. The size of the pile, which keeps you from blowing past the wave, makes this very easy to do. As the current speed slows down the wave begins to shrink as quickly as it formed. For those who were intimidated by the peak, this is a good time to hop back on and enjoy the glassy waves (photo). Do it quickly though as it doesn't last long.
When to paddle
A suitable wave for surfing does not form every day so understanding the current tables is critical. For those who don't live near the ocean, understanding something about tides is helpful. There are two high tides and two low tides every day. The tide coming in is known as the flood and the tide going out is known as the ebb. When peak high or peak low tide is reached the narrows will be flat calm (for only a few minutes) and this is known as slack. The wave at Skook only forms on the flood tide which occurs during the transition from low to high tide. One would think this means that you have two sessions each day, but in practice one daily cycle is generally higher than the other and even if you have two good cycles they will probably both be a little on the low side and one will likely be in the middle of the night. The strongest currents occur around times of full or new moon (lunar information from The Moon's Phase or U.S. Navy Observatory)
Surfing is best on cycles where max flood reaches 10 to 14 knots but is best when the current is around 11-12 knots (Skookumchuck/Sechelt current table online--or for those who want to put it on their Palm Pilot you can download Tide Tool and load the mid West Coast Canada tables). About 2 hours before max flood and an hour after are generally best. The main wave tends to green out on days where the max flood is at the upper limit of the range (i.e. faster current velocity is not necessarily better), but you can still have fun as long as you're prepared to deal with the heavy stuff that forms in the boils downstream of the wave; there are actually some new features that form at these higher flows including the Tube Steak.
You can expect weekends with 12 knot currents around noon to be crowded particularly in late summer or early fall when river options for locals are more limited. So if you go then don't be surprised if you're there with a few dozen other folks. That being said, Skook has always been a friendly place even with a crowd (Canadians just seem to be so much more relaxed than Americans and it's a lot more low key than Hell Hole on the Ocoee), and first-timers always seem to have just as much fun as everyone else.
How to get there (pdf map and directions)
From Vancouver, take the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy.1) to Horseshoe Bay (~30 min). Stay to the left at the junction of Hwy. 1 and the Sea to Sky Highway (to Whistler) and go through the "Langdale/Sunshine Coast" toll booth. Ferries run roughly every two hours (ferry schedule) and the trip is approximately 40 minutes (map below modified from the ferry schedule). Plan accordingly for your wait at the ferry.
Once you arrive in Langdale, follow the signs directing you to Sechelt/Pender Harbour/Earl's Cove Ferry. It's just over 50 miles (80 km) along the coastline. When you get to Ruby Lake, you're about 4 miles (6.5 km) from the turn-off to Egmont and Skookumchuck Rapids. Look for the right hand turn on Egmont Road. Follow this road 3.8 miles (6.1 km) to the end and the government dock in Egmont. There is parking nearby along the road.
Put in at the dock and paddle towards the right (south) approximately 2 miles (be sure it's a slack or flood tide so you're not paddling against the current) to the Skookumchuck Narrows (it will be on your right, the western shore). Alternatively, those with playboats who don't want to paddle in can take the hiking trail. The hiking trail is off Egmont Road just before you reach Egmont (0.3 mile from the dock). There is a sign and parking area for the Skookumchuck Narrows Park (folks often take a cable lock so they can leave their boat overnight and then hike in for the return trip the next day--just be careful not to damage the vegetation as this has become an issue for the park staff).
One other logistics detail that may be an issue for those coming in from out of town is finding a boat. One easy option is to join Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC) and rent a boat from their store in Vancouver.
Places to Stay
Camping is available around Egmont. Strong Water Campground is a private campground catering to boaters that is convenient. A popular camping spot is up North Lake Road to a car camping area on Klein Lake (a good place to rinse off in freshwater). It's 1.1 miles (1.8 km) down Egmont Road, turn right (south) off this road on to North Lake Road. At the first fork turn to the right off North Lake Road, and then take the second fork to the right to reach the Klein Lake Recreation Site.
If you'd like a roof over your head, the Lakeside Retreat is one boater-friendly option. The Egmont Marina (up the side road to the north) and Bathgate (over by the government dock) also provide lodging but they have not been particularly friendly to kayakers. More information on things to do and see on the Sunshine coast can be found here.
More Information Sources
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